The babes can’t stop talking about our Christmas holiday in Nigeria. We hadn’t been back since 2010 when Jed was just 21 months old.
This time we went for two and half weeks, spending most of it in the East. It was a special occasion as my sisters and I were joining the ancient and prestigious Otu Odu women’s society of Onitsha, my father’s hometown. We would become ‘titled women’ — sort of like a chieftaincy.
Our ceremony was being held to mark the 10 year anniversary of my father’s death. He was a titled man himself, high ranking in the Obi (king) of Onitsha’s cabinet. It had meant a lot to him that his daughters would take the Odu title, just like previous generations of women in our family.
Months of preparation led up to the ceremony which happened on the Friday and Saturday before Christmas. That week, our house in Onitsha was crammed with friends and relatives. And kids! Half of them slept on mattresses on the floor in my mum’s bedroom.
For the event, my sister-in-law had organised a stylist from Lagos to do make-up and geles (head scarves).
The tying of gele is an elaborate art that, when done right, results in a regal look (and a temporary face lift when it’s extra tight!). I’m not one for much primping and when she first did my make-up, I was taken aback — my kids were like ‘woah, who’s that!’
I’d never worn so much face paint, not even on my wedding day, but it was fun to get dolled up. Especially as day two of the ceremony, I ran out of time for makeup!
The first day was about presenting ourselves to the Odu ladies (about 200 came) and hosting them. On the second day we came out at 6am to present ourselves to the heads of our family, receive their blessings, and put on the traditional ivory cuffs that are symbolic of Odu.
We then had to visit various homes in our village, dancing and receiving gifts and blessings. Then we changed into the Odu uniform – whites from head to toe.
After being initiated and pledging to uphold the Odu values, we announced our new titles and were warmly welcomed into the Odu fold. My official title is Amalunweze meaning ‘you know this is the child of a king’. This is a popular Odu title that also reflects our family’s royal lineage dating back to one of the first kings of Onitsha.
Afterwards we sat like queens (rather sweaty queens in that heat), while even the Odu women in their 90s passed by to gift us with small sums of money. Then other guests came to ‘greet’ the Odu society with varying amounts of cash. And of course everybody feasted and we danced again to the beats of a highly enthusiastic drumming troupe.
My three-year-old niece stole the show, dancing her little socks off and even Jed did a few moves and got ‘sprayed’ (a Nigerian tradition where people shower dancers with money).
By evening, the celebrants had one more outfit change then, at last, we were free to hang out with friends. The boys were thrilled to see their granddad, my father-in-law, who had driven down for the ceremony and came for lunch the next day.
The event rounded off with fireworks and a party outdoors. My brother took over the decks and we grooved to a mix that included highlife, azonto, Kool & the Gang and Biggie Smalls. Cue the drunken selfies.
After just one day of rest, my sisters and I attended someone else’s Odu ceremony. As the new initiates we had to serve the other ladies food and drink, but we also got to join in the majestic Odu dance – a real highlight.
It was an unforgettable experience, one that I’ll always treasure for the spectacle, the physical challenges (everything from the weighty cuffs to the heavy coral necklaces), the laughs, the sisterly bonding.
Christmas 2014 will also be one to remember for the babes: from Christmas lunch with jollof rice and traditional bitter leaf soup served along with roast chicken and potatoes; to running around barefoot with bundles of mates. Quite sweetly, Ezra was starting to develop a Nigerian accent and when we left on New Year’s Eve, he cried all the way to the airport.
With so much negativity in the news, I’m glad the kids were able to reconnect with their family and their culture and rediscover the best side of the place I still call home. They absolutely loved their holiday in Nigeria and are already planning their next visit — better start saving towards those air fares, boys!
Some more memories from Nigeria:
Jed with cousin Nuli
My little sister Nwando joins in for her close-up
Day 2 of the Odu Ceremony, not looking so shabby for 6am!
Fun times with best friends
My big brother and his little star
Posing with my mother, the true queen of the day, thank you for everything Mum!
Joining up with Vicki’s wonderful Brilliant Blog Posts
Tootsa MacGinty Penguin Jumper for Refuge
Wow Uju – what a beautiful post and an incredible experience. You and your sisters are all so beautiful as is your mum. And as for the makeup, I don’t think I’ve ever seen you wear any but it does look stunning. Having said that you look equally great without. The outfits, the expressions, the love and feeling of celebration all shine through this post. What a memory to have and thanks for sharing it with us too xx
This is so AMAZING!!!!!! xxx
As a fellow Nigerian, I love this post. There’s so much bad news about Nigeria going on in the press, It’s so lovely to see someone celebrating the beauty of our Nigerian culture. You and your sisters look beautiful, and your sons are too cute! x
Hi Fatima, thank you so much for your comment my fellow Naija :-) I feel exactly the same way. Before we travelled I had to reassure my kids about their fears over Boko Haram and Ebola (even though Nigeria was the first country to be declared Ebola free) and even I was starting to fear the worst with more and more bad press. But it was just so good to be there and immerse ourselves in culture, family and of course food! Thanks for the lovely feedback x
Thanks mama, we sure had a good time! x
Thanks so much Nomita, really enjoyed looking back on our holiday and experiencing it again. I was so stressed before travelling getting everything together between passports, jabs and the lot, sometimes you forget that it’s so worth it until you get there and remember that feeling of home. Really appreciate your kind words x
It was an amazing time. Nuli is still talking about Ezra and Jed. Her whole school knows them now…
What a lovely post Uju. Made me smile all the way, remembering what a good time it was – lots of family, lots of laughter, lots of love. I am so glad the boys had a great time so they have really positive memories of Nigeria and always want to come back.
Hey Nkiru, yes just the other day Ezra was quizzing me about when we can go back, suggesting we go in summer and spend all six weeks there! Can’t wait to see you guys again x
Enyi Kwesili! Thanks so much for all your hard work with the prep too, was such a special holiday and your little madam is something else. So glad the cousins could spend time together :-) x
Aw Uju what a lovely post I was grinning from ear to ear from start to finish. I imagine the atmosphere is so uplifting, I can just hear the beats of the drums and the singing now. I love the sense of community in this post. I hope your boys will follow in your traditions xx (so do we have to call you Princess now then? ;-) x)
Aww thanks so much Sabina, appreciate the feedback on this post and glad you found it so evocative. Although I’m not quite sure I get your question – do you mean to say you haven’t been calling me Princess all this time? *banishes you from kingdom* ;-) x
I love this post! So glad you and the family all had such a great experience, it is very heartening to hear such a positive story when there is so much bad news coming out of Nigeria.
I’d love to take my daughter, I haven’t been myself since I was less than a year old!
I think you need to do a part two and three please!
Oh Tinuke you should definitely plan a trip to Nigeria. There are some horrible things happening in our country right now but it’s not all bad and if we allowed the negativity to define our experience of any country, we would all move to Mars I reckon! Thanks I’ll plan to write more about Nigeria, especially from a positive angle, it was so heartening to see the kids loving it out there! x
Uju how wonderful! You look so beautiful and I adore the chunky coral necklaces! I really want my kids to see this side of Nigeria too – I’d love to read and see more about it too. Maybe one day we’ll go… Remind me to curtsey next time I see you, oh royal personnage! X
Haha I expect you to kiss my ring too darling! Thanks for the great feedback, glad you enjoyed the post. It’s certainly worth a trip and actually there are so many cultural wonders all across the country that I’d love my kids to experience too. We shall be planning towards the next visit, maybe see you there? x
Oh my goodness Uju, this is quite possibly one of the most wonderful posts I’ve ever read! How absolutely fascinating. I truly loved hearing about your Christmas’, the ceremonies and a little about your heritage. How extraordinary! Thank you so much for sharing. I also LOVE your title. It suits you perfectly :) x
Hi Katie, what lovely feedback, so pleased you like the post and feel very proud that readers are responding so positively to this slice of my culture. It was really special to immerse ourselves in these ancient traditions and be surrounded by lots of love and laughter too. And thanks, I’m rather fond of the title I have to say – will be printing new Moo cards shortly! ;-)
What fantastic pictures. And what a superb celebration. Sounds as though you defeinitely earned your titles with all that hard work!
Uju, you have always been a Princess, a Queen in my eyes (you are one of the most wise, loving and inspiring women I know) and now your regal title is official (so impressed with your royal lineage too and once again, not surprised). Can I say this post brought tears to my eyes, I felt so incredibly moved by the love, bonding, traditions and beauty of it all, it moved me so much and your Dad must be watching over so proud of you all.
You look STUNNING (you always do though) as does all your family (love ‘meeting’ them all here as remember you showing pics here and there in previous posts and, wow talk about gorgeous genes.
I loved all the pictures of Jed and Ezra, those beauties relishing every moment- (your sister is gorgeous, bet her and Jed on the dancefloor was a joy to witness)– connecting to their cultural heritage, their family over there and it makes me more than ever, yearn to visit the homeland again for me, Cyprus this year. I want my sons to know more about that part of their cultural heritage, as much as I want them to visit SA to see where Daddy grew up.
Thank you for sharing this all with us, like Katie said, this really is one of the most incredible posts I’ve ever read. Love you. Thanks for linking up to #brilliantblogposts too, honoured xxx
Vicki I just want to give you a big fat cuddle! Such sweet words I don’t even know what to say in return! Thank you always for the support and inspiration and hey, you’re one to talk about gorgeous genes lady :-) This post was so much fun to write just remembering everything we went through, even the sweat (lol), and really delighted my readers have enjoyed it so much, especially those of you I hold dear. Always love reading your posts about family and you should for sure take your little ones to their various ‘motherlands’ if you can. We would also love to take the boys to New Zealand at some point, as that’s where their Nana’s from, too many wonderful parts of the world to explore! Love you back lady xoxo
Thanks Nell, just got another batch of photos from my bro although these ones aren’t that clear, hoping we can recover some of the official photos that were quite lovely and really told the story of the event. And yes we most certainly felt we’d earned our titles, and the celebrations after ;-)
Wow Uju, this looks absolutely amazing, wonderful and emotional all in one go! You look absolutely beautiful and how wonderful to have all this in your dad’s memory. So very precious and the boys will never forget it.
Beautiful Lady!
WOW such a beautiful insight..I wish I got to go to Nigeria for Christmas. I have always been fascinated by the traditions of the East. I love how everyone put the effort in and got all dressed up.
Thank you so much for the lovely feedback, it really was everything you described! Very glad I have this blog to share it with you all :-)
Thanks for the comment Joy, you know half the time I was complaining about the dressing up – all that fuss – but looking back it was lots of fun and it does make a spectacular occasion. Naijas know how to throw down! I’m fascinated by all the native customs and would certainly like to explore more of the country and experience more of our range of traditions and festivals.